If you missed Part I, Read Bicoastal Fitting Models

What size is a standard fit model? 

Standard fit models today range from size 4 to size 8, even size 10, with size 18 being the main fit size for the Plus industry and 32 or 34 waist for Men with a 40 chest being the Men’s standard. The most interesting thing I have observed over the years is the shift in the fit business from almost all Women’s Production fit being done on size 8s to the range of sizes now. Many contemporary brands led the way fitting on size 6 or 4 so a company could save money and have samples that were smaller and therefore thought of as “cuter” in the showroom by making the fit and showroom sample the same size.  Alternatively, they could cut samples in an 8 for production and a 4 for sales (to hang in the showroom or shoot on the models) but these requires more work and therefore more expense. Fitting on size 8 was the standard because it was generally the middle of a size run… companies producing garments in size 2 up to size 12 usually.  You would only fit on the one standard fit model, and then grade the pattern up and down for other sizes.  By being mostly in the middle of the size run, the margin for error is slimmer between sizes. If you fit on a size 2 or 4, by the time you grade up to the 12 garment you are pretty far away from the body you made the clothes for and possibly not fitting those larger sizes as well. Though, of course, companies spend a lot of time determining the best math to perfect their grade.

Print and Fit Model Ashley Sumner

How much does a fit model generally make and how often do they work?

We have fit models making great 6 figure salaries, and maintaining their careers between and after pregnancies into their 50s if they maintain there specs. Keeping your measurements consistent is a top job priority.  Represented Fit models generally take home anywhere from $100-$250/hour depending on experience level and location (prices vary dramatically in the locations we have booked fit models which include Boston, LA, NYC of course, and Hong Kong).  In NYC for instance, many fit models are making between $100,000-$250,000 year working anywhere from 8-20 hours a week on average.  Of course, there is travel time between accounts that is not considered in those hours, and time working out to maintain specs, and other general image maintenance (Mani-Pedis, Waxing, Skin care, etc).

Fit Model Joe Vollen

Is there more flexibility regarding height and age for commercial models than in the fashion world?

The Commercial world has a huge range of requests and thus a huge range of talent.  What we seem to lack on our boards would be professional models/actors who are 40 to 70. In the 20s market, there is a lot more talent and a lot more competition amongst talent.  There are far fewer “older” models available for things like Pharmaceuticals, Insurance Companies, Cruise lines, and other ads we have submitted to (so better odds of being booked). The great thing about the commercial market is that anyone can roll the dice if they are near a market, such as NYC, invest in a good headshot, which can be as little as $150-$200, and find a good manager/agent to submit them. Why not? If you have the time or interest, there may be a casting director who needs someone just like you! But, making commercials or commercial print your main source of income is a bit more challenging and you are still statistically in the single digit chances of booking a job when most casting directors cast with a several reps and then call in dozens of options to pitch to their clients. Nonetheless, if you are selected it is generally high pay for a short amount of time so I would say think positive and explore this avenue to anyone who was interested.

Plus Model Suzette Green

Where are your offices located?

Our office is located on the Upper East Side of Manhattan, and we work from there on our bookings for both domestic and international clients.

How do you scout models?

We scout models all over… we have found models on the subway, on the sidewalk, in gyms, waiting on our table at Balthazar, via other models who refer their model friends, and via clients who refer models who need representation. It is always fun to start working with someone new!  We get a lot of email submissions, as well.

Tell us about your modeling background?

I modeled here and there as a teen (think mall modeling) and then while in college found my first agent and began doing showroom gigs once a season. As a 5’8″ size 6/8 I was not going to book runway or fashion work, but I was referred into Fit. It took a while to establish myself as a fit model, but after a year of near misses I booked Ralph via Jones New York and Tommy Hilfiger and things snowballed from there! While pregnant and a new mommy I shot an ad or editorial or two, but I always ended up finding Fit work as my mainstay. I liked that there was longevity to it and that you were often expected to contribute to the process and really be a part of the team!

Advice for aspiring models?

Give it time. Test shoot as much as you can with reputable photographers… get to know your best angles. Stay positive. Stay in touch… we like when our models/talent email us to let us know they are eager and ready to work! And when booked, show up on time, hair/nails/clothing clean and look your best!  Be friendly but don’t chat too much with clients, they are working and probably super busy so know you are there to help them do their job and your professionalism is also required.

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Models on Bicoastal’s Fit Board

Tell us about your agency:

Bicoastal Fitting Models was created in 2009 while I was pregnant with my second child.  Initially, my thought was only to find my replacement fit model but instead of finding my twin body to carry on while I grew a 9 pound baby, I found myself with referrals and booked both Petite and Plus models with our initial clients.  Now, we book models of all sizes for fit, including children, with clients and models based in NYC, LA, Boston, and Hong Kong.  In 2012, we created a print board and have delighted in seeing our models and talent get called into great castings every week!  We have also been excited to book runway shows with a number of brands, and continue to add models to our Fashion Board to be ready for the next season’s shows!

Bicoastal Founder Malissa Young

What sets Bicoastal apart from other agencies?

There are a few things that we believe set us apart from other model management companies.  For one, as a former model myself, and with our head booker Nikki Gomez as another former model and fashion photographer, we care about our models and can relate to them!  We love it when we hear that we are one of the nicest agencies and believe it is part of why we grow.  We also can advise our models based on our direct experience of what clients are looking for from posture to poise, photos and even casting/booking etiquette.

Who are some of your clients?

Bicoastal Models aka Bicoastal Fitting Models specializes in finding fit models for brands that range from the hip and trendy boutique brands to the missy department store brands.  As the owner/founder, I always feel excited about new castings and seeing us expand and work with brands I personally covet for my closet!  Currently, DVF, Tory Burch, Haute Hippie, Inhabit jump to mind!  I do miss the days I modeled for great brands and had an employee invite to sample sales that were legendary (think $1,200 marked down to $50).

What other divisions besides fit do you have?

Our growth into the Commercial Print and Showroom/Print world has been a fun natural turn of events given the fact that we found ourselves with great talent who didn’t have the perfect measurements for fit  but had a combination of factors that meant we knew we could find them work.  Working in this field is like building a puzzle; I enjoy the challenge as well as seeing people achieve their goals!  It is very rewarding to participate in that. Our Plus division has been expanding with Nikki’s extra attention to it given her expertise in the Plus world.  We are excited to have had models book some great Plus fit accounts as well as catalogs, E-commerce and runway!  This is a hot area in my mind, given the fact that there is a customer base that seems under marketed to.  It has really been amazing to meet so many plus models who have redefined beautiful and sexy (eliminating the skinny bit) which is so much healthier for women and girls who need to embrace their beauty in whatever shape or size it comes in.

Stay tuned for Part 2 from Malissa next week and find out how you may fit into the modeling world, whether you are a size 4 or size 18. Plus learn how much fit models make and more on commercial modeling. Don’t miss it!

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