With COVID-19 still looming, many photo studios remain dark and no one is prowling the catwalks. What is an aspiring model to do?

Stay healthy, eat right, exercise, and educate yourself! Learn everything you can about the business so you are ready to take action once the industry is buzzing again. Expectations of instant gratification will get you nowhere these days. Select the “Modeling” category on my blog and read all the posts (keep arrowing back for more). For bonus points, read all of the Modeling Articles on my site.

Here is a cheat sheet of terms every model needs to know…

Agency – The middle man between the client and the model. They take a percent of what the model makes for each booking (usually 20%). A legitimate agency will not charge anything when they sign you; they only make money if you work.
(Best Modeling Agencies in NYC for Women) (Top Kid Model Agencies in NYC)
(Modeling Agency Appointment: What to Expect and When to Beware)

Book – The more common term for “portfolio.”

Booking – A confirmed modeling job.

Call-Time – The time the model needs to arrive at the job. Never be late. If you hold up a shoot, it can cost a client thousands of dollars (studio rental, crew, equipment rental, the photographer and other models’ time).

Casting – An “audition” for a specific job. Usually a model isn’t requested to do anything beyond show their portfolio, possibly have some digital photos taken, and occasionally try on clothing. If it’s a runway casting, models will walk for the client. For commercials, models will be put on camera, sometimes with dialogue, or they may just slate their name and agency and show their profiles or do a 360-degree turn.
(The Casting Couch: How Big a Role Does It Play in the Modeling World)

Catalog – This term can refer to a job, model, or market. A catalog job is a shoot for a store’s catalog, e.g. JCPenney. A catalog model usually has conventional American-as-apple-pie good looks, unlike the more unusual creatures populating high-fashion magazine spreads and catwalks. A catalog market is a city that has more catalog-type clients than editorial/high-fashion clients. Miami, Dallas, and Munich are examples of catalog markets.

Cattle-Call – A casting characterized by masses of models. Lists can go beyond 200 and involve hours of waiting.

Chart – A model’s work calendar on which an agent types in a model’s upcoming options, bookings, and any days she may have “booked out” for personal reasons or vacation. With the advent of model-agency software, charts became computerized. In the 90s, they used to hang from a circular frame above the bookers’ table and the bookers would spin them around to find the chart they needed.

Comp Card – Common term for composite card. This is a model’s key selling tool—her business card—which usually features a color headshot on the front and several shots on the back. The agency mails out packages of comp cards to clients constantly and the model must always have comps to leave at castings and go-sees.

Digitals – Your agency will periodically take digital photos of you at the agency, which are no-nonsense snapshots of you: headshot, profiles, and non-posey full-lengths so clients can see what you look like, sans makeup and elaborate styling.

Modeling Mentor Model of the Year Alexa Kissling – digital profile shot

Direct Booking – A job in which an out-of-town model is booked by a client who usually pays for the model to come in from another market. The client books the model from a comp card or portfolio, without seeing the model in person (or the client may know him/her from a previous booking).

Editorial – As opposed to catalog, an editorial job is for a magazine and editorial models can be more edgy than pretty. Editorial work pays much less than catalog but is essential to building a strong book of tear sheets and getting the exposure needed to climb the supermodel ladder. Top editorial models usually do the top shows and vice versa; the top editors who book them are sitting in the front rows at the shows. Paris, Milan, and New York are editorial markets.

Go-See – An appointment to go and see a client or photographer. A new model or a model new to a market will do days of pavement-pounding go-sees. Many agents use “go-see” and “casting” interchangeably, but originally a go-see meant a model was making the rounds and seeing the clients so they knew him or her for future reference; a casting was for a specific job.

Mother Agent – Your first agency or the agency that guides your career and places you with agents in different markets. Your mother agent generally retains 10% of your earnings, while the agency where they place you gets the other 10%. So having a mother agents does not affect the model’s net profits, since the total agency cut remains 20%.
(The Ins and Outs of Agency Contracts)

Option – A client has put a hold (“first option”) on a model, and that client will be given first dibs on booking the model should a “second option” or booking come in from another client.

Request Casting – A casting in which the model has been specifically requested by the client.

Tear Sheet – Any page from a magazine or publication that the featured model can “tear” out and put in her book. Tear sheets, especially good ones from top magazines, are like gold. They prove a model is in demand, and, since people are sheep, that leads to more demand. A great tear sheet trumps good catalog cash.

Modeling Mentor Model of the Year Em Marie has built a book of fabulous tear sheets while modeling in Asia over the past two years.

Test – A shoot that is done specifically to build a book—the model’s and/or the photographer’s—not for a job. New models need to test as much as possible. Experienced models will replace test shots with tear sheets, but most models—except the top echelon—will continue to do some testing throughout their careers to keep their books updated.

Voucher – This is the form, provided by your agency in your voucher book, that you and the client fill out at the end of each booking. One copy goes to the client, one to the agency (these days generally you can take a photo and email it to them at the end of the booking), and one for your records.

Blast from the Past: Check out My Favorite Modeling Articles from Tear Sheet magazine

This is a follow-up to my previous Slim vs. Sick post, so read that first!

That article sparked a lively Facebook conversation with my model friends from back in the day and from today. I’m sharing their comments here so you can take more than my word for it: Models eat!

Lovely Leslie! My close friend’s comp card from the 90s.

90s Models on What Living Large and Staying Trim Meant Then

RICKY: I loved my food and wine/beer. Maybe my downfall at times was that I never really cared about weight. I didn’t care. I lived a life full of friends, culture, travel, adventures, smokes, booze (but not too extreme), and never let the business get the best of me. I didn’t do the job for the financial aspect but for the opportunity to travel and see the world, and that I did. I saw so many incredible countries, so many adventures—enough to last a lifetime! I’m sorry for those girls who struggled with eating disorders; the business never meant that much to me to sacrifice food and fun!

A page from my model scrapbooks, with Sophie Patitz and Ricky Haas. I met them in Munich in the 90s and we are still close friends.

LESLIE: I’ve always loved food and never personally understand eating issues. I never had that issue but I completely enjoyed cigs—every single one of them. That habit was acceptable in the 90s in Europe, but unfortunately it’s very addicting. It took years to quit and I finally did it. I was always healthy other than that and never had to diet.

We had no idea how fortunate we were and no touching up anything—just Polaroids to check lighting. We truly were the last generation before full-on technology. We were lucky, saw the world, had a blast, and made lots of memories together ❤️

JILL: And no cell phones. We actually had to read maps! And I’m sure we learned the cities much more thoroughly that way ;) GPS – nah, too easy!

Shows in Dusseldorf, road trip to Salamanca, model pension in Madrid (I was the only girl among all these male models!)

RICKY: My geography is so fine tuned due to the good ol’ days. The way I entered the modeling days in 1988 would be shocking to current models…”Here is a map of our city and here is a list of 10 clients you must see in a 9-hour period. Good luck! And P.S. sorry you don’t speak the language!”

The Model Diet in 2020

ALEXA: I’ve definitely had trouble with the measurements and how to enjoy healthy eating, until you took me in and taught me the heathy food ways I wasn’t introduced to before(: I was very naturally skinny no matter what I ate, until I hit the time where my metabolism slowed down. There was a time where I was desperate and too focused on the weight, and how to lose it and tried to do special “diets” that weren’t necessarily healthy but that never helped. Eating healthy and working out is definitely what is needed—good for you and your body. I am super thankful for you and taking me in and teaching me ❤ I’ve definitely heard a lot about models only drinking coffee and smoking.

Gorgeous Alexa Kissling, summer 2020

JILL: Awww, it’s a true honor to steer the next generation down a healthy path—mind and body—so you too can have the time of your life in the modeling world. When you look back years later, you’ll remember the friends you made, the places you went, the adventures you had. The tear sheets won’t matter as much—they’re the bonus. I saved all my portfolios. Half contain my modeling tear sheets and photos. The other half I made into scrapbooks of photos, notes, and keepsakes from my decade in the biz—those are the ones I look at all the time.

BIG CONGRATS TO ALEXA KISSLING, DISCOVERED THROUGH MY MODEL SEARCH, ON RECENTLY SIGNING WITH RED MODEL MANAGEMENT IN NYC! (Check out all of her amazing pics at the link!)

ENTER MY MODELING MENTOR MODEL SEARCH

Congrats Model of the Year Winner, Julianne Walker!

Julianne Walker, shot by Emily Scimeca

Height: 5’9″    Age: 18    Size 1-2

Julianne is currently in her freshman year at UVA. Brains and beauty! Keep an eye on my blog to see where her future of juggling books and bookings takes her! 

Julianne Walker, shot by Kayla Simon

Enter the 2019 Modeling Mentor Model Search and get discovered!

Model of the Year Updates

Em Marie, Model of the Year 2016

Em is enjoying supermodel status in Asia, where she has been working in Japan, South Korea, and China. She has landed numerous bookings including editorials in Vogue and two editions of Harper’s Bazaar! Her Toyota commercial is super fun too. Though up before dawn most days and working nonstop, Em has found time to launch a blog. Ride the ups and downs of modeling with her and follow her on adventures across the globe: My Life as Em Marie

Alexa Kissling, Model of the Year 2017

Alexa signed with top agency The Industry Model Management in New York last spring and spent this fall modeling in Tokyo, falling in love with the beauty of Japan. She has a ton of new tears, including Numero, and I can’t wait to see where 2019 takes her!

Modeling Mentor Winners Land Top Modeling Agents, Fashion Editorial, and Talent Agents!

It’s been a super exciting year at Modelingmentor.com. Our Models of the Month are gaining international recognition from agencies and clients, and I can hardly keep up with all the updates on contracts, bookings, and adventures! Since we are mid-way through 2018, I thought I’d share some updates, which are sure to inspire those of you who dream of pursuing a path as a model or performer.

Em Marie, Model of the Year 2016

Em Marie wearing Chanel, in Ginza magazine, shot by Katsuhide Morimoto, styling by Yuriko E, hair by Taku, m/u by Uda

Em Marie, wearing Chanel, in Ginza magazine

After I scouted Em Marie while she was performing in Maine (she is a dancer and aerialist, in addition to being stunning…and kind and sweet and super disciplined and basically a role model in every way!), she promptly landed an agent. Em, along with her mom, has had an amazing time in Tokyo with Image Models. Stay tuned for a guest post from her on her experiences there. Highlight: A 7-page editorial in Ginza magazine!

Alexa Kissling, Model of the Year 2017

Alexa entered my model search last year, and I was instantly wowed by her email submission! On Zoom, I was smitten with this cutie’s personality (and she was just as gorgeous without a bit of makeup as she was in her photos). The Industry Model Management immediately noticed the 5’10″ lanky beauty. Now Alexa is living in New York and living her dream as a model with The Industry. Compare her Model of the Year photos to these latest shots, and check out the transformation! This girl is such a chameleon. She can do it all!

Alexa Kissling, shot by Sam Gold

Alexa Kissling’s new New York look! With The Industry NY

Alexa Kissling, styling by Theo Banzon

Isabelle Boughner, Model of the Month, October 2015

Isabelle has hit the magic age of 16, when model development really kicks in for women. She is the complete package of adorable, cool, and talented (she is a guitarist, singer, and composer). I’m in love with this test shoot she did in Westport, CT.

Isabelle Boughner, shot by Tomira Wilcox

Isabelle Boughner, by Tomira Wilcox. Jacket by Zoe Mann.

Julianne Walker, Model of the Month, February 2018

I’ve had an eye on Julianne for almost her whole life (she happens to be my husband’s second cousin!). Julianne signed with a mother agent within a couple months of winning Model of the Month. She has begun testing and just graduated from high school. Julianne will attend UVA in the fall and continue to build up her portfolio and pursue modeling opportunities in the summer months.

Julianne Walker, shot by Emily Scimeca

Julianne Walker by Kayla Simon

Ida Nevstad, Model of the Month, May 2018

Ida also has been offered a contract by an agent! She has been testing and finishing her busy junior year. She will be heading to Europe for part of the summer.

Ida Nevstad, by Tomira Wilcox

Cooper Gusick, Model of the Month, November 2015

Cutie Cooper just signed with Innovative Artists, a top talent agency in New York (and L.A.). His face is already known the world over from this Dear Evan Hansen Mash-Up (Minute 1:50). I can’t wait to watch this great kid’s career!

Is it your turn next?… ENTER THE MODELING MENTOR MODEL SEARCH

Congrats to Model of the Year Alexa Kissling!

Pretty…

Alexa Kissling, by Charles Martin

Commercial…

Alexa Kissling commercial headshot

Editorial…

Alexa Kissling channeling Courtney Love

Alexa Kissling or… Marilyn Monroe?

Beach Babe…

Alexa Kissling swimwear

Striking…

Alexa Kissling headshot

This girl’s got it all!

Stay tuned to see where Alexa lands in 2018. I have no doubt that she has an exciting career ahead of her!

Congrats to People’s Choice Winner… Pierce Kang!

Adorable…

Pierce Kang, shot by Bonnie Nichoalds

Bookish…

Pierce Kang, shot by Bonnie Nichoalds

Sporty…

Pierce Kang, shot by Bonnie Nichoalds

Cool Kid…

Pierce Kang, shot by Bonnie Nichoalds

Another versatile model with a great future ahead of him!

I can’t wait to see your 2018 submission. Send ‘em in! Enter the Modeling Mentor Model Search

Model Winner Alexa Kissling!

Alexa Kissling, by Jenna Ashton

Height: 5’9″    Age: 18    

34-24-34     Size 1–2

Based in Baltimore

Seeking Representation in NYC

WOW! This stunning model has an incredibly versatile look, that goes from girl-next-door to bombshell, sassy to sultry…

Alexa Kissling or… Marilyn Monroe?

Alexa Kissling channeling Courtney Love

Alexa Kissling headshot

Alexa Kissling commercial headshot

Alexa Kissling swimwear

Alexa graduated from high school in the spring and is at the perfect age to take the Big Apple by storm! 

Remember, your submissions are still eligible for next month! This spectacular submission actually hit my inbox in April. I’m backlogged, dear readers. Be patient

Don’t forget to “like” the page of your favorite Model of the Month